GYS COMBIDUCTION AUTO 50 LG Betriebsanleitung Seite 31

Operating manual
Description
This inductor is designed specifically for removing glued windows (rear window, rear quarter window, panoramic roof, etc.),
as well as sanding off gravel-chip scratches from the bottom of the bodywork. It can also be used to remove welded sheets.
The automatic mode is particularly recommended for windscreen removal.
Removing glass
◊ Preparation
1. Remove any exterior trim beforehand: windows with crimped-metal or plastic trim. For trims that cannot be removed,
heat the holding weld from the inside.
2. It is recommended to also remove any interior trim and other component parts, such as clips and dowels, that may be
used to hold the window in place.
3. Disconnect antennas and heated-glass systems.
4. Stick protective tape around the edge of the glass to prevent damaging the painted surfaces during handling.
5. Stick protective tape to the glass inductor to avoid scratching the glass. Replace the tape after removing each window.
6. Clean the glass completely before beginning its removal.
◊ Heating phase & glass removal
The greatest risk of damage to the paintwork is at the beginning of the heating process, as it is more difficult
to insert wedges between the glass and the bodywork.
Start in one corner and heat each side of that corner before progressing to opposite corners.
If the glass is damaged, start at the corner to be repaired and work towards the unbroken part of the glass.
7. From a corner, place the inductor opposite the urethane-adhesive seal to easily remove the glass.
Some vehicles have narrow, welded edges, so heating the inductor can cause the painted surface to become visible, potentially
compromising its appearance. In this case it is recommended to cool the outer surface with a damp cloth or a spray coolant. Move
the inductor towards the middle of the window so that it is at least two cm from the visible, painted area.
8. Move the torch back and forth by approximately 30 cm over both sides of the aforementioned seal. Finding the right
heating speed: too slow a pace will result in excessive, localised heating. This is inefficient as it reduces the heat gen-
erated at the welded edge. too high a pace will not allow sufficient heating of the welded edge or the urethane-adhesive
seal. When the urethane-adhesive bead's optimum temperature has been reached, a little smoke will be released.
If thick smoke appears, stop heating immediately. Move away from the area to avoid breathing in the fumes and try to iden-
tify the cause of the smoke. The heating of urethane glue causes the release of hydrogen cyanide, which is very dangerous
for humans.
10. Once the corner of the pane has come loose, repeat the heating process along the length and height of the pane,
positioning wedges under the pane as you go.
Translation of the original
instructions
Welded edges on which the glue joints rest
Visible painted surfaces not to be heated
Directions of heating progress
9. Apply pressure from inside the vehicle without forcing the seal to break.
Causing the adhesive to lift-up and come away can take a few minutes. Once
the seal has come off, it will not reattach to the metal.
When the corner of the glass lifts up, slide a plastic wedge into the gap between
the glass and the welded edge. Be careful not to exert too much force which
could break the window.
COMBIDUCTION AUTO 50 LG
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